You may be asking “whose mix”? Mel Bartholemew is the author of All New Square Foot Gardening
Mel’s Mix
- 1/3 vermiculite
- 1/3 peat moss
- 1/3 compost (from as many sources as possible)
This is done by volume. My garden beds were each 4′x4′ and needed 6″ of mix to fill them. 4x4x.5=8 cubic feet of Mel’s mix. I did three boxes, so I needed 24 cubic feet of mix, 8 cubic feet of each item. Now, this amount did fill my boxes initially, but as I watered and the mix settled, I added more compost.
The Cost
I was able to buy the peat moss and compost at WalMart or Home Depot, but I only found the vermiculite at IFA Country Stores (Intermountain Farmers Association).
- 2 large bags (3.5 cu ft) vermiculite, $18.00 each
- 1 large bale (3.8 cu ft compressed, expands to be more) peat moss, $9.00
- 8 bags (1 cu ft) compost, $2.00 each (average price)
- 6 extra bags (1 cu ft) compost, $2.00 each (average price)
- TOTAL COST (three 4′x4′ boxes): $73.00
The Benefits
Why not just use dirt? You can, but there are some great benefits to Mel’s mix:
- Planting and germination–Mel’s mix is much lighter than dirt, and it doesn’t get compacted down because you never walk on it. This allows seeds to push through much easier, so you don’t have to be so particular about what depth you plant the seeds.
- Root systems–It’s really easy for roots to grow and spread in Mel’s mix. I was surprised when I pulled up my lettuce plants, the root ball was so large, nearly the whole square came up with it. I just shook out the mix and composted the old plants.
- Weeds–by this I mean, WHAT WEEDS! As long as you are careful with what compost you get, there are no weed seeds in your mix (unlike dirt). If a seed blows in, the mix is so loose it’s easy to tug them right out. Again, I spent less than 1% of my time in the garden weeding. As a side note, I made the mistake of buying Nutrimulch (turkey droppings), and had tons of bugs. I won’t do that again!
- Drainage–with Mel’s mix, you cannot overwater! Mel recommends hand watering, but if you choose to irrigate, how do you get the right amount of water to each plant? Easy! I used a drip system, and watered away! Mel’s mix drains so well, you don’t have to worry about it.
When you use Mel’s mix, you don’t have to worry about what kind of soil you have, or amending the soil. Every time you plant a square, you add a trowel of compost. You don’t have to rotate where crops are planted, or do anything special, unless you want to.
Cost Savers
Mel’s mix can be more expensive, but there are several ways to cut costs.
- BULK COMPOST–First, I bought compost in bags, but you can go to your local recycling center and get a truckload for about $30.00. Depending on how many garden beds you have, this could really save you. Here are some compost sources in Utah.
- PLAIN COMPOST–Also, you can fill your boxes with straight compost. The only drawback to this is drainage–your plants can really get waterlogged if you don’t pay attention.
- MY MIX (MODIFIED MEL’S MIX)–1/4 peat moss, 1/4 vermiculite, and 1/2 compost mixed in the box.
In fact, this year I am doubling my boxes (building 3 more) and doubling my boxes (making them twice as high). For my existing garden beds, I will just add more compost. For the new beds, I will use my alternate version of Mel’s mix.
Mixing It Up–Tarp Method
Mel recommends mixing this on a tarp–so that’s the method I tried at first. The biggest mistake was that I tried to mix 24 cu ft of material at once. It was so heavy I could not lift even a corner. I know others who have mixed it in a wheelbarrow, but I think this is too small a batch. It might work to combine 8 cu ft at a time.
- Pour compost on a large tarp. If you used several types, mix it following the instructions below before adding other materials.
- Add vermiculite.
- Add peat moss.
- If it’s really dry and dusty, mist it down but do not get it wet (makes it heavier).
- Mix by taking two corners of the tarp and pulling them over the tarp (like making a burrito) until all the material is close to one edge, lay the tarp flat. Then take the opposite two corners and pull the other direction, lay the tarp flat. Switch back to the other side and pull until all material is running down the middle of the tarp.
- Now shift 90 degrees (so you are looking down the column of material) and repeat. Basically, pull north, then south, then north until it’s in the middle. Then pull east, then west, then east until it’s in the middle again. Repeat until it is uniformly mixed.
Go here for information on what to add to Mel’s Mix after the first year.
Happy gardening!
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I don’t think the potting soil is a good alternative. I would probably go with the local compost.
So I live in a small town, no big box stores only an Ace Hardware. My question is thay sell there house brand compost with no info on whats in it. The other choice is FoxFarms Ocean Forrest potting soil. Can I substitute the potting soil for the compost?
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Many thanks! You have been really helpful. I have enough mix from last year to replenish the beds that have settled – and then I’ll simply add a variety of compost in the successive years. Yeah!
Again, thanks – and I’ll bet that you have also helped other second year sfg gardeners with this advice.
If you have Mel’s mix left over from last year, you can go ahead and use it to fill the beds for this year. You’ll want to turn the soil since it settles quite a bit, and mix it well. If you don’t have enough to completely fill the beds, just add compost. The peat moss and vermiculite should last several years or longer–you just need to replenish with compost. Try to use as many types as possible (from many sources, chicken, cow (not steer), horse, mushroom, turkey, etc.)
I’ll be starting my second year of sfg and have a lot of Mel’s Mix from last year. Three questions:
1) Is the mix still OK to use after overwintering (I’m in MIchigan)?
2) If the mix is still OK, should I put a layer of it on my raised beds or just mix in some compost for this second year?
3) If the mix is OK, I figure that I should till it with the mix left in the beds from last year – right?
Hope you can answer this – I have not been able to find out about this anywhere else. The book only talks about preparing and using the mix for the first year of sfg.
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Jackie–As long as there’s a bit of a slope, I don’t think the newspaper will be a problem. However, if the garden is in the lowest spot in the yard, you may have poor drainage.
Jacrav,
Compost is decomposed organic material. In the US, most compost is made of one main ingredient. So chicken compost is mainly composed of chicken manure mixed with tree bark. Because the bulk of the compost comes from one source, it provides limited nutrients to the plants. So I suggest combining as many types of compost as possible. They also sell good mixes that contain ingredients from several sources. These are ideal, but I still try to use a variety. I think of it as eating vegetables–broccoli is good for you, but if all you eat is broccoli you will not get the vitamins and minerals you need. A variety of vegetables is required.
Hello Emily
I intend to start a square foot garden but i am a little bit confused about the different composts necessary.
Here in France we call compost the stuff that comes from composting plants and TERREAU the different mixtures one finds in bags at special shops in which one finds compost and a lot of other different materials like see weeds horse manure worm manure etc! Now when different sorts of compost are recommended are the compost made out of different materials or do they correspond to what we call TERREAU or MIX for you,
I will appreciate your view of my problem in understanding of what I should do.
Thank you for your help
Jacrav
Starting my first SFG in an area with a lot ot grass & weeds. I thought I might lay down some pages of newspaper before I put down the weed block fabric to deter the weeds. My husband thinks this may affect the water drainage. Is this a good idea or not? Thanks for your help.
Yes, but it’s not the biggest bang for your buck. Pumpkins take up to 8 squares for one plant–compare that to growing 2 large tomato plants, or 8 squares of green beans, etc. I like having a nice area where my pumpkins can sprawl, and use my SFG beds for more compact veggies.
Can I grow pumpkins in SFG?
Emily, thank you so much for all of this information! I’m starting my first SFG and was beginning to panic bc I had no idea what to do about the soil…I am headed out now to by the mixing ingredients and can’t wait! I am building just a 4x4x12″ bed, and have actually raised it up and set it on a wooden bottom, (as a renter and a digging-dog owner, I felt this was the best way to start,) but I wanted to ask how you felt about this type of bed…should I drill the bottom for drainage?
Thanks again!
Brooks
mynext25years.blogspot.com
Doug–Each plant has different watering needs, and Mel’s Mix doesn’t guarantee you’ll meet that need, but can’t drown a plant like you can with regular soil.
do you still believe you can’t overwater with mel’s mix?
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Miracle grow contains fertilizer, so that explains the increased growth.
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I would add some mulch or compost + peat moss. Apply as thick as you can, considering the plant. If it’s one per square, you can even leave a little “well” by the stalk to water it. And if you have the means, you could build an irrigation system to water it more evenly.
Hi Emily,
I wish I’d found your site before putting my sfg together, but, oh well. I followed Mel’s Mix as strictly as possible and things are coming up nicely except that I can’t seem to water gently enough. The soil is SO friable it washes around when I water. I’ve used a cup and watering can, same thing for both. I am finding veggies growing in the wrong squares because the seeds washed away upon watering. This is annoying, to say the least. How can I make my soil more stable now that I have seedlings and small plants? Thank you!
I would test the soil to see what’s wrong. Normally you don’t need to test, but before you throw it all away, find out what is wrong and fix it.
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Last year, I set up my first “square foot garden” following your recipe for Mel’s mix, and I had a successful growing season. This year, I decided to create another 4×4 sf garden, and I thought I followed the recipe fairly closely, although I used a different mix of compost. Almost all of the vegetables that I planted in the new garden have died. Any suggestions?
In Utah you can buy it pre-made, but it’s EXPENSIVE (like $10 for 1 cubic foot, I think). But many garden centers sell some sort of garden soil mix, which might be worth a try, for simplicity sake.
Hi there,
I’m just getting into SFG and super excited to try it out this year. I’m struggling with where to put the garden because we mostly get shade but we’ll start small and see how we do.
Can you buy “Mel’s Mix” already pre-made? Or would that be just too easy? I’m just wondering for convenience sake and for buying in bulk whether any of these materials come already mixed together?
Thanks!!
Stacey
Becky–I would ask the people who run the composting facility if it’s safe or not. I know we have local bulk sources like this, and some say it’s safe while others say it’s black gold and they garden in straight compost. I think you have a shot–the other MUST haves are seeds and transplants (for things like tomatoes and peppers that need more time than the season allows).
Thank you so much for your detailed website. I need all the help I can get since I have a black thumb.
I am hoping to get my first ever garden set up this weekend here in WI. I know that I’m already a little late in starting. I’m also trying to spend the least $$ possible. I can buy 1 yard screened yardwast compost from the county for $5. Is this safe to use? If so what else is a MUST to add to have a successful garden?
My bed needs to go on a hill since that is the only sunny spot in the yard. Any other advice?
Thanks Again
Kim–I just prefer to cut the cost a bit by using more compost. Those 4 types will be fine–I don’t know if cattle manure is the same as steer? Steer are fed a high salt diet, and the salt in the manure is not good for gardens. Ask if the same is true for cattle.
I find it nearly impossible to find 5 different types, I just do my best and count it good.
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I recently purchased Mel’s book and it says to use 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite and 1/3 compost. You seem to be suggesting to others here to use 1/4 peat moss, 1/4 vermiculite and 1/2 compost. What should I be doing? My next question is about compost. The only compost I can find so far is mushroom compost, shrimp compost, sheep compost, and cattle manure compost. I can’t seem to find a 5th type as suggested in the book. Do I really need a 5th? Are any of the ones I’ve found not good for a vegetable garden? Please advise.
Thank you!
Don’t over-water, just two cups per plant or so. And if they are struggling, give them shade. I hope that helps. Just remember–they WANT to grow, so you just have to help them along.
Emily, please help! I put together a bed with Mel’s mix, then planted some of my hardened off seedlings. The next day the tomatoes and squash are wilting and only the peppers seem happy! Any advice on what’s happening? Thanks a bunch!
Rasa–your beds are 3.5 feet by 7 feet: 3.5×7=24.5 sq ft. Now multiply by 8″ (8/12=.67) 24.5 x .67= 16.3 cubic feet. So you will need roughly 4 cubic feet of peat moss, 4 cubic feet of vermiculite, and 8 cubic feet of compost.
Hi! thank you for your informative site. i have just purchased my 1st raised bed and am excited to start my dream of gardening. the bet kit I bought is 42″x84″x8″ so I am a bit confused how much of what i would need to fill it with Mel’s mix. if you could please advise i would really appreciate it thanks!
-Rasa
Kathy–go here! http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/spring-gardening-checklist/
I am in year two of my garden. Do I need to do anything to the Mel’s mix before planting?
Koren–The Monrovia Organics Planting Compost sounds fantastic! I don’t know the price differences, but I would not hesitate to use that, add 1 part vermiculite to 3 parts compost. If you have access to manure, I suggest you add it to the garden in the fall, along with shredded leaves, grass clippings, etc. Let it sit uncovered for the winter months, and it should be decomposed enough in the spring. You can test it–bring a pot of soil inside and see if a bean will sprout. I don’t know why, but I read somewhere that this tests if it will hurt young seedlings. Then in the spring add peat and/or vermiculite as needed. You can tell–if you’re turning the soil and it comes up in big clumps, it needs vermiculite. If it is super loose and flyaway, it needs peat moss.
Hello Emily. First and foremost I love your site! It’s great! And now to my question. I am going to start SFG for the first time and I’m having a heck out time trying to find compost out here in small town USA. What I did find out in the city was is a product called Monrovia Organics Planting compost that contains 13 different strains of mycorrhizae and is made from compost, peat moss, composted bark, sterilized rice hulls, perlite, and sphagnum peat moss. Should I try that and mix it with vermiculite and call it good, OR, my other option is a product called Soil Pep which is made up of Composted Douglas Fir, Ponderosa Pine, Other Composted Forest Products. I don’t know what to do or if I need to be adding manure to it as well. What is your take on my problem? Thanks so much! If you have any other advise please share!
Thanks again.
http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/spring-gardening-checklist/ #3
Hi! I’m in my 2nd year of SFG. What do I need to add to my soil this year? Thanks for all the inspiration!
Elizabeth–If you soil is fairly loose and easy to work with, and does not have too many weeds, I would not replace the soil. A much cheaper alternative would be to:
1. Test the soil (use store bought, distilled water). I might even be tempted to pay to have this done.
2. Just keep adding Mel’s Mix to fill the beds each year
If the soil test comes back with bad results (too acidic, too alkaline, complete lack of nutrients) I might start fresh. Otherwise, I think you’re fine just adding to until eventually you have great soil.
Mix as deep as you can without breaking your back. My beds are up to 14″ deep, and I can turn the soil with relative ease using a spading fork.
Peat moss is slightly acidic, so see how your soil tests before adding too much. You can find a source to test it at extension.org. Look up your local extension service, and they should be able to help. However, if you are adding it along with vermiculite and compost, I think you’re safe.
Carrots will grow in funny shapes if the soil is not very loose and easy to grow through. It twists and turns if it hits any obstacle. Mel’s Mix provides virtually no resistance. Also, read about vermiculite sources–there was a link to an online source in the comments.
Hi Emily, thanks so much for all the great information. I’m new to SFG but we are going to try it this year (last year just planted willy nilly, very close together, and ate what grew). We built raised beds two years ago which are fairly deep and I’m wondering how much of the soil I need to amend. The beds are 4′x7′x18″; 5′x5′x20″; and 3′x4′x11. The smaller bed we’ve just used for herbs and I’ll likely continue that (so may not amend that bed so much).
We live in Los Angeles and have clay soil so we filled the beds originally with “clean dirt” we purchased, plus peat moss, manure, an organic compost blend from Home Depot, some sand, and I think some Ironite. I know we didn’t soak the peet moss so that might be an issue. I wonder if I should dig out all of the current blend and start fresh, aiming for Mel’s mix if I can find Vermiculite (which doesn’t seem to be available at a price we can afford right now — so maybe Perlite).
We have to dig it all out anyway to line the redwood beds with plastic sheeting (we didn’t think to do that originally) so I’m open to starting fresh, or just working with what we have.
1) How deep should I do the mixture? All of the soil in all three beds? Or can I leave a few inches of the current blend on the bottom and just do 12″ of Mel’s mix?
2) Do you think we should start totally fresh with new dirt, peat moss (we have a lot left over) and Vermiculite? Should I have the current soil tested and go from there? Add lime if it’s too acidic? Not sure where to get tested in Los Angeles, and home kits are not advisable b/c of the water pH, right?
3) Either way I’ll be adding fresh compost (however many kinds I can track down) — and if I added only that, how far down should I be turning the soil?
4) I think it’s probably advisable to add soaked peat moss either way to keep the soil fluffy, yes? Can I overdo it on the peat moss? If it’s already in there will it hurt to add 1/3 more?
We will be growing lettuce (a lot), tomatoes, beets, greens, herbs, carrots, peppers, cucumbers (draped down over the side), berries, and a few other things. The carrots were quite warped and odd shaped, but maybe that’s how carrots always are. Wasn’t sure if it had something to do with the nutrient content. The peppers did not grow (will try the egg shells) and the tomatoes just okay. I soaked with a hose to water, and often the soil seemed dry underneath (just 1 1/2 inches down). I think we may have had some of the city mulch in the mixture too so that might be why?
Thanks so much for any information/feedback. I know I have a lot of questions, so even just a little guidance is much appreciated!