Square Foot Gardening Plan – Suburbs of North Texas

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  • Garden Year: 2012
  • Location: North Central Texas  (Suburb 30 miles NW of Dallas)
  • Planting By Color Group: Red/Olive

My name is Cyndee and this is my first garden.  When I was a little girl growing up in New Jersey, we had a backyard garden, mostly with tomatoes and peppers, but we tried a few other things as well.  I used to help take care of the plants and the smell of tomato plants brings back a powerful nostalgia for me.  I have wanted to start my own garden for a long time, but my efforts at container gardening in apartments fell short.   Tomatoes are quite difficult to grow in containers in Texas because of the extreme heat; they dry out very quickly.  Also, as I later discovered, the containers I was using were far too small.  I have wanted to start a garden since we bought our house in 2009, but life kept getting in the way and the start up tasks and costs seemed overwhelming.  This year we are finally doing it although I am not sure how much we are actually going to harvest given numerous screw ups and challenges already!

We have a very small lot (.17 of an acre), so we’re just doing two beds, plus a small herb garden against one side of the house.  We built our 4′x8′ raised beds of 2″x12″ pine.  I also included 4″x4″ support posts in the corners, but I kept them a little taller in case I wanted to put some kind of cover over the plants in the winter.  I would rather have used cedar, but it wasn’t available in the sizes I needed.  I read some recommendations against using peat moss in my area, as it dries out too quickly, so we used a bulk veggie garden soil from a local supplier, which included compost and some other amendments that are recommended in my area (expanded shale, Texas greensand).  Anyway, as I have since discovered, the presence of uncomposted wood chips in this soil is quite a problem so I do not recommend it. Here’s my garden so far:

square foot gardening DSC02731 300x225I’m following a planting calendar recommended by a local community garden, but the extremely unusual heat and almost non-existant winter in the past year has me worried.  I planted my winter veggies on Feb 26, which is on the late side, and they are growing extremely slow and having some pest problems, so I’m not sure if they’re going to make it.  I’m trying to decide if I should go ahead and plant summer crops already or wait until April.

The back wall will be used for vining plants and I need to build some kind of trellis.  I am thinking about 6 feet tall, which would make it as tall as the fence.  Suggestions appreciated!  I have heard good things about cattle panel.

Here is my garden plan – I got a little crazy with clip art on a rainy day!

square foot gardening garden plan

 

I tried to follow companion planting as best I could, but with limited space, it was difficult.  I put cool weather crops around the squash to give it room to expand to the 3×3 space recommended.  Similarly, the melon will have room to expand all along the trellis when the peas die out in the summer.  I had originally planned 1 square foot for tomatoes, but on further research, this seemed unrealistic, so I had to lower my amount of tomatoes and give them 4 square feet.   I’m hoping eggplant and peppers can fit in 1 square foot, but I guess we’ll see.    I will fill in any empty spaces with marigolds and basil.

Unfortunately since I started planting, my excitement has turned to frustration.

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Radishes after 3 weeks. Barely getting first leaves.

1.  Nothing is growing. This stuff has been in the ground almost a month and it’s growing anemically.  Here is a picture of my radish plants, 3 weeks after planting.  It really started to hit me that something was wrong after seeing this, since I should be harvesting them in a week.  They are kind of yellow, there are small holes in some of the leaves and some white lines.  None of my seedlings have really done anything since they popped up.  After doing some more research and doing a cheapie soil test, I discovered that the soil I purchased is actually quite deficient, despite supposedly having a lot of compost.  I think it’s the wood chips.  I fertilized this past weekend with Gardens Alive organic fertilizer, but I am not sure if that is enough or if it’s too little too late. I plan to add some amendments which will hopefully be enough for my summer veggies, but it’s probably too late to save most of my cool weather veggies.

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My poor potato plant is being eaten alive.

2.  Pests.  Fire ants have TAKEN OVER the beds.  They are everywhere.  I drenched raised mounds with orange oil, which did kill some, but obviously not all.  I spread molasses, which has done nothing to deter them.  I ordered some spinosad baits and fingers crossed they will work.  Something is munching on my plants, but I can’t see the culprit.  Witness the potato plant at right.  These have actually been growing decently but the leaves are getting chewed up.  Whatever it is, I can’t see it on the leaves.

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Snap pea plant with brown spots

My snap pea plants also started strong but have flamed out.  There was some leaf chewing in evidence, as well as brown spots on the leaves. The pellets you see are slug baits, as I read that it could be slugs and I saw some slime on the surface of the soil.  My snap pea plants are looking worse by the day which is sad because I really wanted fresh snap peas.

 

I’d love any input on the problems I’ve been having so far. I am not sure how much of the problem is pests, or soil or what. Do you have any idea what could be attacking my plants? How can I fix my soil organically and quickly?

Also, any southern gardeners, have you used shade cloth?  My garden faces west which concerns me, I’ve heard some plants can get heat scald from being in direct sunlight all day in the summer heat.

Finally, if you use drip irrigation, how long do you leave it on for and how often?  I’ve been hand watering so far because I don’t have much planted yet and I just haven’t had a chance to set up my drip irrigation equipment.  But I’ve heard that  slow, deep watering is essential.  I feel like I’m not doing a good enough job at that right now.

Posted in Garden Plans, Guest Posts | 17 Comments

Starting Seeds and Planting Onions

I’m very proud of myself for actually getting my seeds started on time! Last year I was so busy, I ended up just buying all my plants. But it was EXPENSIVE!

square foot gardening seeds setup

So here’s my setup. All the plants in round pots are for my veggie garden, and the square ones are flowers for the front garden bed. I’m starting kale, collard greens (my new experiments), tomatoes, peppers, and some herbs.

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I was AMAZED because I planted these on Thursday, and nearly half had sprouted by the following Tuesday. All my tomatoes are up, as are the cabbage family. The peppers take longer–sometimes up to two weeks.

square foot gardening seeds germinated

I was also able to plant some things outside. I’m running into trouble–some of my grids are breaking. I’m at least one short, so I took one from a neighboring bed, and planted my onions. Then I put it back. Since I planted the entire bed at once, I have no need to differentiate the squares.

I planted mostly yellow onions, some red onions, and a few transplants I bought for cheap.

I took some pictures so you can see–it would be pretty hard to get the onions spaced this evenly . . .

square foot gardening planting onions 2

Without using this . . .

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The final product . . .

square foot gardening planting onions 3

Happy gardening!
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Posted in 2012, My SFG | 5 Comments

Brighter Blooms Nursery, part 1

I was thrilled to be contacted by a representative of Brighter Blooms Nursery with an offer to try some of their products. They mostly offer landscaping items (trees, bushes, perennials, and vines), but it just so happens that I’m planning a huge redo of my front flower bed. Up until now it has graciously served as a spot for “ornamental squash.” That means I grew all my pumpkins, zucchini, and winter squash there. So it was perfect timing, to say the least!

My flower bed is on the north side of my home. So it gets direct sunlight when the sun is very high in the sky, but full shade in the winter. It’s about half and half the rest of the time. I decided to try their Autumn Embers Encore Azalea, as well as a Meyer Lemon Tree. The weather is too cold to actually plant the tree in the ground, but I have a beautifully sunny window in my office where it can be with me all winter, and then I’ll move it onto the little deck just outside when the weather improves.

I received a notice when the plants shipped–they took about 5 days to get to me. They arrived in this big box:

square foot gardening plants box

Excited, I opened it up to find these:

square foot gardening plants lemon treesquare foot gardening plants azalea

Both were securely in the box, and the pots were wrapped in plastic. This kept the soil moist and the dirt contained.

It’s too cold to plant the azalea right now, so I left it in the 3-gallon pot. I potted up the lemon tree in a 5 gallon pot, and put them both by the sunny window in my office. It’s a south-facing bay with a sliding glass door. So the plants get sun from sunup to sundown.

square foot gardening plants lemon tree sun

Within a few weeks, look what happened:

square foot gardening plants azalea flowersquare foot gardening plants lemon flower

Aren’t they beautiful? The lemon tree keeps blooming and blooming, and the smell is DIVINE! Everyone who walks in the room notices and comments on it. They are self-pollinating, but since there are definitely no bees in my office, I took a little cotton ball and helped spread the pollen around. I can already see little baby lemons forming! Two or three leaves have turned yellow and dropped, but from what I’ve read this is a normal part of transitioning to a new place, pot, etc.

square foot gardening plants azalea blooms

The azalea is full of blooms, and they are every bit as beautiful as the pictures on the website! The leaves it came with were dark, and some looked worse for wear. Not a problem, because it has new leaves growing everywhere. I can’t wait for the weather to be warm enough to plant it outside–it will be a plant I enjoy for years to come.

I’ll write more when I get lemons, and once my azalea is in it’s permanent spot. Thanks again to Brighter Blooms Nursery!

Happy gardening!
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Posted in 2012, My SFG | 3 Comments

Chicken and Cauliflower Pesto

square foot gardening Cauliflower pestoThis recipe is easy, delicious, and paleo friendly. Just a reminder, we’re not super strict about dairy, and the pesto sauce has Parmesan cheese in it. It’s quick to make, and was a HUGE hit with my family!

Heat 2-3 TBS olive oil in a skillet. Add 2-3 chicken breasts, cut in chunks. Cook until browned and no longer pink in the middle.

While chicken is cooking, steam 1/2 head of cauliflower florets in microwave or on the stove.

Add cauliflower to chicken. Add 1 1/2 cups baby spinach leaves and 1 package pesto sauce (I got mine at Wal-Mart, in the deli section). Heat through, just until spinach is wilted.

Serve immediately, and enjoy!

Happy gardening!
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Posted in Recipes | 2 Comments

Green Onions

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Green onions are a hardy vegetable that grow best in cool weather. Green onions (also known as scallions or spring onions) can be grown from spring to fall, and in warmer climates, from fall to spring

Spring Planting

Plant green onion seeds directly in the garden as soon as you can work the soil, about 8 weeks before the frost date. Continue planting every two to three weeks for a continuous harvest. You can also plant onion sets, preferably a white variety.

Fall Planting

Plant green onion seeds or sets up until 10 weeks before the fall frost date.

If you live in a mild climate with a late or no fall frost date (after Nov 1), you might be able to grow green onions all during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Onions grows best in a rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and every 3-4 weeks during the season.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting, 21-0-0 every 3-4 weeks.

Harvest

Harvest green onions anytime after they reach 6” (15cm). If you cut 1” above the root, it can be replanted to grow more green onions.

Similar to: leeks, onions

More Resources

Happy gardening!
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Posted in Veggies | 3 Comments

Pennsylvania Square Foot Gardening Plan

square foot gardening guest postGardening year: 2012
Location: Knox, PA
Planting By Color: Blue/Maroon

2011 was the first year I had a garden. It was not really a failure, but it would certainly be an over-exageration to call it a success.

This year I will do better.  I will spend less time reading gardening blogs and more time actually gardening.  I will (get my husband to) build a fence at the beginning of the season and not wait until vermin have eaten off every sprout in the garden…twice.

I will not start and then transplant an entire package of tomato seeds just because they all sprouted.  I will not plant 3 squares of radishes and I will pick them before they get too big.  I will prune my tomatoes, who knew you were supposed to do that?

I will freeze or can what we don’t eat, not just throw it in the compost after it starts to smell (no more rotten liquified cukes YUK!)  I will build trellises and use cages instead of letting everything go willy-nilly.  I will mark and remember where I planted things so I don’t accidentally dig the lettuce seeds up to plant more radishes.

I will grow actual picking cukes for my pickle experimentation.  I will pick my zucchini before it gets huge even though a huge zucchini seems like more of an accomplishment.  I will not get emotionally attached and cry when small rodents eat my baby bean and pea plants.

I will just go in on the community sweet corn field that our neighbor does instead of trying to grow my own and feeding every deer and raccoon in the area.  I will photograph the process. I will actually blog about my garden.

Here is a picture of the layout of our beds (the only photo taken of my first garden ever. sigh.)

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This is my planting plan for this year. I think I got the companion thing okay.
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My husband and I differ on gardening methods and plant choices. As a compromise, we stay out of each others gardens and keep most of our opinions to ourselves.  It saves us a lot of trouble. If he doesn’t put in broccoli like he is currently planning on, I’ll replace two of my eggplant squares with broccoli. We also have a planter of mint, thornless raspberries in front of the house, and a formerly overgrown grapevine that I may have pruned too aggressively last week.

This is a chart/list of what all is going in. It’s helpful to see at a glance how many seeds to start and reminds me that 5 squares of Spinach will be 45 plants (maybe I need to rethink that….)

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I have a few concerns/questions….

My husband thinks the peas planted with sunflowers will pull the flowers over. I just want to see what will happen. Any advice on not having my peas topple my sunflowers?

I’m worried that this may be an over ambitious plan fueled by spring fever and seed catalogs….. Are there any glaring mistakes or things that will be a problem?

Since this is only my second year trying this gardening thing any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. I have no real clue what I’m doing and will never learn if people don’t correct me when I do dumb stuff square foot gardening icon smile

Thanks!

Posted in Garden Plans, Guest Posts | 14 Comments

Collard Greens

square foot gardening collard greens1 300x199 square foot gardening hardy square foot gardening 1plant

Collard greens are a hardy vegetable that grow best in cool weather. However, they tolerate the heat better than kale, cabbage, or broccoli. Collards are like cabbage without a head. The leaves are harvested and eaten instead.

Spring Planting

Collards can be planted directly outside 4-6 weeks before the spring frost date. For an earlier harvest, start seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before the frost date, or purchase transplants.

Transplants are ready when they are 3” tall (8cm). Harden off and transplant outside from 4 weeks before until the week of the spring frost date.

Fall Planting

Collard greens can be planted directly outside 10-14 weeks before the fall frost date.

If the temperatures are still very hot, start seeds indoors 10-14 weeks before the fall frost date, or purchase transplants (if available).

Transplants are ready to move into the garden when they are 3” tall (8cm).  Harden off and transplant outside 7-8 weeks before the fall frost date.

The plants will mature more slowly in the fall because the days are shorter, but since they can tolerate freezing temperatures, you can continue harvesting after the first fall frost. In fact, the flavor is better after a light frost.

If you live in a mild climate with a late or no fall frost date (after Nov 1), you might be able to grow collard greens all during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Collards grow best in a rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and every 4-6 weeks during the season.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting, 21-0-0 every 4-6 weeks.

Harvest

Harvest outside leaves when the plant reaches 12” tall (30cm).

Similar to: broccoli, kale, cabbage

Happy gardening!
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Posted in Veggies | Leave a comment

My 2012 Square Foot Gardening Plan

After a beautiful warm day that melted all the snow outside, I got really motivated to get planting! I’m in the Green group, and I can plant peas outside next week. So, I made my plan, wrote my list, and went shopping! I’m up to my ears in seeds and compost, and soon will be ready to head outside.

square foot gardening Garden Plan 2012 1024x1021

I’m planning on doing some “inter-cropping” by planting quick growing veggies where my tomatoes will grow. Radishes harvest in as few as 25 days, and beets take only 8 weeks. Since my beets will be planted 5 weeks before the tomatoes, they only have to share space for 3 weeks.

The other exciting innovation–I am planning to build a trellis out of cattle fencing. It will go up and over my 4×8 bed, lengthwise. By growing cucumbers and squash over the trellis, I hope to provide shade for cool-weather veggies like lettuce. We’ll see if it works!

I’m trying two new veggies this year–eggplant and kale. I think it’s fun to experiment with at least one new vegetable every season.

Happy gardening!
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Posted in 2012, Garden Plans, My SFG | 24 Comments

Northern Utah Square Foot Gardening Plan

square foot gardening guest post

My name is Haley and this will be my very first experience with gardening. I’m excited but also overwhelmed and a bit nervous! I am totally inexperienced with gardening and I have been trying to read and learn as much as I can so that I can hopefully have a successful year. I’m starting small so that I don’t get overwhelmed and then if things go well, we will continue to add to our garden.

We are planning on building some raised square foot beds out of wood or railroad ties. I need a lot of feedback, but I tried to use the companion planting tool to find things that would work well together. I still have a few empty spots so any suggestions about what to add would really be appreciated! Here are my questions:

  • Should I plant asparagus? I love it, but I’ve heard it takes 2 years to grow
  • What plants should I trellis?
  • Did I leave enough room for broccoli, tomatoes and zucchini?
  • What kind of tomatoes should I grow and where?
  • I have no idea how to plan a planting schedule-I don’t want to end up with tons of food all at once, so how should I space my planting so that I have a longer harvest?

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Thank you so much for the opportunity to get some feedback and help on my garden plan, I really appreciate it!

 

Posted in Garden Plans, Guest Posts | 7 Comments

Beets

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Beets are a semi-hardy vegetable that grows best in cooler weather. If you provide consistent watering and some shade, you can grow them throughout the summer and into fall.

Spring Planting

Beets do not transplant well.

Soak seeds for 12 hours before planting. Plant beets directly in the garden 3 weeks before the last frost date.

Fall Planting

Beets can be planted and harvested all summer long. Plant seeds directly in the garden up to 8 weeks before the first fall frost date.

Soil and Fertilizer

Amend with lots of compost and fertilizer before planting. Beets are sensitive to boron deficiency, so apply and mix 2 teaspoons of Borax per square of beets before planting.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting

Harvest

Beet seeds are actually a cluster of 3, so they need to be thinned. Young beet leaves are delicious as a salad green. Harvest roots when they reach 3 inches in diameter.

More Resources

Happy gardening!
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Posted in Veggies | 2 Comments